It’s weird to some of us at Learn to Surf to hear colors or numbers when people talk about conditions. “Aw man it’s blue today!” Really? Aw, man? Some of my most fun days have been blue, or as Surfline calls it, POOR TO FAIR.
“It’s only 2-3 out today.” Are you kidding, 3 feet is chest high! Back in Hawai’i, before Surfline or MagicSeaweed were telling us how the ocean looked, we had guys using measurements in terms of their body, with their eyes.
Knee high, waist high, chest high, head high. Then numbers came in, two overhead, three overhead, double overhead—at that point you knew it was big out there.
Don’t get me wrong, I love Surfline, technology makes most things better (arguably). It’s the best way for the ticked-off office job guy to see the kinds of surf days he’s missing. But we at LTS want people learning what separates a good day from a great one, from a fair day to a not-so-fair one.
Use your knowledge about swell direction and period that you should be picking up by reading these blogs, at least 😉 and you should compare that scientific data with what you actually see.